Surfing in Portofino: An Atacama Desert Surf Experience

Introduction to Surfing in Portofino, Chile

Portofino is one of the most extraordinary surf discoveries on the planet. It is a small coastal settlement perched on the edge of the Atacama Desert in the Chañaral region of northern Chile, where the world’s driest non-polar landscape meets the full force of the South Pacific Ocean in a collision of environments that is genuinely unlike anything else in surfing. The waves here are powerful, consistent and almost entirely unsurfed by the wider world.

The scenery is otherworldly with vast desert cliffs dropping to a wild, untouched coastline, the Andes shimmering in the distance and the Pacific delivering long-period swells that have crossed thousands of kilometres of open ocean before arriving on this remote and extraordinary shore. Portofino is not a destination you stumble upon. It is a destination you seek out deliberately, and those who make the journey tend to leave with the conviction that they have found one of the last truly undiscovered surf frontiers in the Americas.

A beautiful peeler along the coastline of the greater Portofino. Photo provided by Portofino Surf Camp.A beautiful peeler along the coastline of the greater Portofino. Photo provided by Portofino Surf Camp.

Best Seasons to Surf

• Winter Season — April to September: Portofino’s most powerful and consistent surf season. South Pacific groundswells generated by storms tracking across the Southern Ocean deliver long-period, well-shaped waves to the Chañaral coastline throughout the Chilean winter, and the exposed beach and point breaks around Portofino respond with the most impressive surf of the year.
• Summer Season — December to March: The swell mellows during the Chilean summer but the consistent offshore winds and warmer conditions make it the most accessible and comfortable season for beginners and those taking their first lessons. The Atacama sunshine is relentless and the ocean, warmed slightly by the season, remains an inviting and enjoyable environment throughout.
• Shoulder Seasons — March to April / September to November: The transitional windows either side of the main season offer a compelling balance of building swell and comfortable conditions. Autumn brings the first proper groundswells of the winter season to Portofino alongside a landscape and light that makes the Atacama coast feel even more cinematic than usual. Spring sees the swell still running as the temperatures climb.

A surfer enjoying a nice line. Photo provided by Portofino Surf Camp.

Recommended Surf Spots

The coastline around Portofino delivers a variety of breaks shaped by the powerful South Pacific swell that arrives from the open ocean with little to interrupt it before it hits the Chilean shore.

The waves of Portofino. South Pacific surf in one of the most remote and extraordinary surf settings on earth.

Surf Camp Recommendation

Portofino Surf Camp

Portofino Surf Camp is the only dedicated surf and stay operation on this stretch of the Atacama coast, founded and run by Rodolfo, a passionate local surfer and fisherman who has built a genuinely warm and characterful base right on the seafront at Avenida Portofino.

Accommodation is spread across a handful locations that are thoughtfully designed apartments all in close proximity. A swimming pool and garden provide a natural place to unwind after a session in the water, and the free private parking and family-friendly amenities, which include a kids trampoline and guided nature tours, make it well suited to families as well as travelling surfers.

Surf lessons are structured and hands-on, beginning with dry-land practice covering board handling, paddling and the pop-up technique before progressing into the water with Rodolfo’s guidance. Fishing lessons, guided hikes, cultural tours and water sports activities round out an offering that goes well beyond a standard surf camp. For anyone heading to Portofino and the Chañaral coast, this is the obvious and most complete base from which to experience it. Sessions are bound!

Rodolfo teaching some lessons to a group of beginners.

Three Other Things to Do in the Area

• Pan de Azúcar National Park: Stunning coastal desert park with sea lions, Humboldt penguins and dramatic clifftop walks just north of Chañaral.
• Atacama Desert Exploration: The world’s driest desert begins on the doorstep. Guided tours into the interior reveal lunar landscapes, salt flats and ancient petroglyphs.
• Fishing with Rodolfo: The Portofino Surf Camp team offer guided fishing experiences on the Pacific, a deeply local and memorable way to spend a rest day off the board.

Some beautiful views of the mountains in Atacama high desert.

Conclusion

Portofino and the Chañaral coastline represent something that is genuinely becoming scarce in the world of surf travel, which is a destination with powerful, consistent waves, an extraordinary natural environment and almost no one else in the water. The Atacama Desert as a backdrop, the South Pacific as a playground and Portofino Surf Camp as a warm, welcoming and entirely authentic base make this one of the most compelling and unusual surf experiences in the Americas. For adventurous surfers who want to go somewhere that has not yet been fully discovered, this is the direction to point the board.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Portofino, Chañaral?

The nearest airports are Caldera and Copiapó, both within approximately one to two hours by road. Santiago is served by international flights with connecting domestic routes north to the Atacama region.

What are the water temperatures like?

The Humboldt Current keeps water temperatures cool year-round, typically ranging from 14°C to 18°C. A 3/2mm to 4/3mm wetsuit is recommended depending on the season.

What wetsuit thickness do I need?

A 3/2mm fullsuit is sufficient during the warmer summer months. From April through September a 4/3mm is the safer and more comfortable choice, particularly for longer sessions.

When is the least busy time to surf at Portofino?

The coastline is uncrowded year-round by the standards of most surf destinations. The winter months from June to August offer the best swell with virtually no other surfers in the water.

Is Portofino suitable for beginner surfers?

Yes. Portofino Surf Camp offers structured lessons for all levels with dry-land tuition before every water session, and the beach breaks around the area provide accessible conditions for those just starting out.

Are there other waves to improve my surfing in Chile?

Certainly! Check out our Surfing in Chile Travel Guide for a list of places that offer surf lessons and camps to get better at the sport you love, and to chase that session.