Surfing in Marquesas Island – Surf Spots and Guide
Surfing in the Marquesas is something that has a few known surf spots, so this guide will be limited in its scope, although some of the details on the mysterious breaks, and how they look, should be enticing enough to learn a bit more. I do not have an immediate video to share of the islands waves, as they are in the surf spots section, so instead read on for a mysterious potential session!
Introduction to Surfing in the Marquesas Islands
Tucked away in the deep Pacific about 1500 kilometers north of Tahiti, the Marquesas are as rugged as it gets. They are one o the most remote group of Islands in the world. The islands are separated into two groups, the Northern and Southern. In total the Marquesas total 15 islands, although only 6 are of these are inhabited.
These islands do not have the protective coral reefs you see in the rest of Polynesia, so the swell hits the volcanic cliffs and black sand beaches with plenty of energy. You are looking at a massive window for south swells and north swells to march right in from the open ocean.
The main reason to head out here is for the isolation and the sheer beauty of the landscape. You are surrounded by the South Pacific Ocean, and the typical swell is consistent but can be. It is decent for waves pretty much year-round, though the winter months for each hemisphere bring the biggest energy. It is not exactly a beginner paradise because the power is real and the currents are strong, but if the surf goes flat, you are in one of the most beautiful places on earth. The hike to make it to said islands, is quite the huck, thereby it is only recommended for a advanced or expert surfer. No highly equip modern medicine is nearby to help you in precarious situations.
Best Season to Surf in the Marquesas Islands
The conditions here are dictated by the lack of reefs, meaning the coastline is wide open to whatever the Pacific throws at it. From May to October, the southern swells dominate, while November to March sees the northern swells take over. The trade winds are the main thing to watch, as they can chop up the water quickly.
For Beginners
It is tough for true novices here, and we highly advise against it. But if you really want to go, and try to surf, the best bet is hitting the more sheltered corners of the black sand bays during the transition months like April or October when the swell height drops. Look for the inside sections where the power dissipated.
General Recommendation
The prime window is generally the southern hemisphere winter from June to August. This is when the most consistent groundswells arrive, providing the most size and punch for those looking to score real Pacific power.
Best Spots to Surf
The Marquesas are still shrouded in some mystery as the chain of islands, really have not much public exposure online, nor offline in history of surfing books, so the details will be outlined as the best of information is available.
Best Beginner Waves
Anaho Bay – (Nuku Hiva): This is one of the few spots that offers a bit more protection from the heavy swells. The sandy bottom makes it a bit more forgiving for those trying to get their feet wax-side up.
General Recommendation
Ua Pou – Hakahau Beach
Hiva Oa – Taaoa Bay
Hiva Oa – Atuona Bay: While it can get big, the beach break here often has smaller peaks near the edges of the bay that work for people still learning to read the ocean energy.
Fatu Hiva – There is this wave on the island, scroll down in the post, although specific locations are unknown.
I couldn’t say where this wave is located, but I am sure the local would point you towards the way when you ask…afterall you traveled all that way.
Surf Schools and Surf Camps
Kuhane Surf Rent: There is no direct website for a formal school as the scene is very local and grassroots. Kuhane is based on Hiva Oa. Not sure if this counts as a surf camp either, but I am sure you can get multiple day sessions with the individuals who run this.
How To Travel There
You will need to fly into Tahiti first. From there, Air Tahiti operates flights to Nuku Hiva or Hiva Oa. To get to the smaller island you will either need to take a ferry, or even hop on a smaller flight to the few islands that have a airport, such as Ua-Pou ANeou Airstrip or Ua Huka Airport. Regardless, once you land, expect a rugged 4×4 ride to get from the airport to the main villages.
General Costs and Considerations
Expenses
It is expensive. Almost everything is imported. You will want to bring plenty of XPF cash as ATMs are rare and cards are not accepted everywhere. Expect to pay a premium for food and transport.
Travel Advisories
There are no major travel advisories regarding war or crime, but the terrain is dangerous. Watch out for the nono flies, tiny biting insects that are relentless on the beaches. No special vaccines are required, but a heavy-duty first aid kit is a must because medical facilities are limited.
Other Things to do in the Marquesas Islands
Food
Try the Poisson Cru. It is fresh tuna marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. It is the fuel of the islands and keeps you going between sessions.
Location to Hike
Trek to Vaipo Waterfall on Nuku Hiva. It is one of the tallest in the world, dropping hundreds of meters down a sheer basalt cliff in the Hakaui Valley.
Cultural Thing
The Matavaa o te Henua Enata is a massive arts festival that occurs once every four years. If you time it right, you will see traditional tattooing, wood carving, and ancient dances that show the true spirit of the islands.
Conclusion on the Marquesas Islands
Surfing in the Marquesas is a mission. It is for the traveler who wants to see the world before it got paved over. The waves are powerful and the setups are raw. It is not a place for a relaxing surf camp vibe with cocktails and manicured lawns. It is a place for hiking through jungles, dodging sandflies, and charging heavy breaks with zero crowds. If you are looking for a soul searching adventure and have the skills to handle moving water, it is absolutely worth sending. Just respect the locals and the ocean, because both are very strong out there. A heavy session is sure to occur.